Rock Climbing Washington by Jeff Smoot

Author:Jeff Smoot
Language: eng
Format: epub
ISBN: 9781493039425
Publisher: Falcon Guides
Published: 2019-05-12T16:00:00+00:00

10. South Face (5.8) ** A popular Jell-O Tower route, climbing a corner crack and face through a blocky roof, just down and left from the Midway chimney. Pro: to 2 inches.

11. Midway Route (5.5) ** Castle Rock’s original route, and most popular, owing largely to its easy climbing, prominent position, awesome exposure, and fabled classic status. Begin via the wide chimney on the right side of Jell-O Tower. From the tower’s summit, step across to the main cliff and traverse ledges right to reach the obvious wide crack system leading to the top. The original ascent reportedly climbed the dihedral as for Midway Direct before traversing over to the crack, but most parties since have traversed to the crack sooner following the current standard route. Pro: to 3 inches. (FA: Fred Beckey, Wes Grande, Jack Schwabland 1948)

12. Midway Direct (5.6) *** An airy finish variation of Midway. Do the step-across move, then climb straight up a corner, step left, and climb exposed face moves to a broad ledge, from where many variations to the top are possible. Pro: to 2 inches. (FA: T. M. Herbert, Eric Bjornstad, R. Neufer 1960)

13. Midway Direct Direct (5.9) ** Traverse slightly left from the top of Jell-O Tower and climb a thin, bolted face, joining Midway Direct at the upper ledge. A good continuation of Damnation Crack. Pro: to 2 inches.

14. Winter Solstice (5.6) ** An exposed route paralleling Midway on the right. Climb the ramp right of the Midway chimney, angling left under the blocky overhangs, then directly up steep face and cracks above. Pro: to 2 inches. (FA: Eric Bjornstad, B. Hooper 1960)

15. Devil’s Fright (5.10c) ** A blocky roof above the Winter Solstice ramp. Continue up steep rock to the top. Pro: to 1.5 inches. (FFA: Jim Madsen, Ron Burgner 1966)

16. Devil’s Delight (5.10c) ** The white, blocky wall and roofs right of Devil’s Fright. Pro: to 1 inch. (FFA: Jim Madsen, Tom Hargis 1966)

17. Crack of Doom (5.10a) *** An excellent, steep route climbing the obvious crack splitting the blocky wall at the right edge of the ramp. Continue up exposed face and cracks to the top. Pro: to 2.5 inches. (FFA: Jim Madsen, Tom Hargis 1966)

18. Old Gray Mare (5.8) ** A fun face pitch leading up the arête directly below Crack of Doom. Pro: to 1 inch.

19. Canary (5.8) *** This airy, scary three-pitch outing up the steepest portion of upper Castle Rock is one of Leavenworth’s best routes. Start via an obvious shallow corner, traverse right and climb a dihedral to a roof, where a short rightward traverse gains Saber Ledge. Alternatively, traverse farther right and climb a vertical crack, then mantle onto the ledge. From Saber Ledge, a scary leftward traverse leads to the lip of the overhang, where exposed, continuous face moves continue up the headwall. Not a good choice for your first 5.8 lead. Pro: to 2 inches; quickdraws; a #4.0 Friend to protect the roof traverse. (FFA: Hank Mather, John Rupley 1960)

20. Cat Burglar (5.

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